The clients lined up for grapes from this vineyard speak to the quality; among them are Cristom, Vincent, 00, Division, Niew, Amica Luna, Sanguis and Brooks. Owner Mark Royer explains that “in 2022 we decided to grow production and make a run at it ourselves. This was the first year we harvested off our newest Chardonnay block – Witzel & Wind – 7 original heritage clones on 7 rootstocks. We worked exclusively with 00 [Double Zero} to produce this wine using their black Chardonnay technique.”

In 2023 Royer’s consulting winemakers came from Division Winemaking. The goal that year, says Mark, was “to dial in the individual nuance and character inherent in our terroir. The blind tasting confirmed our belief that our site can uniquely differentiate various levels much like Burgundy based on certain blocks and or clones. The first of three wines is being released at this time; the other two will come out next year.”

Royer 2022 Witzel & Wind Block Chardonnay

Witzel is a type of soil, the wind in the name is presumably referring to the impact of the Van Duzer Corridor breezes blowing through. This wine was made by 00 (Double Zero) – a cult producer whose wines I have greatly admired. This is a high impact style, packed with orchard fruits and showing touches of mint and charred toast after spending 18 months in year-old puncheons. An exceptionally long finish that will develop more and more nuance over time suggests that more bottle age is in order, or decant it aggressively. 13.5%; $115 (Eola-Amity Hills) 96/100

Royer 2023 Estate Chardonnay

The Royer vineyard is on volcanic basalt and planted to several different Dijon clones. Fermented in neutral oak and bottled just last month, this impressive wine is already drinking well, mixing grapefruit, green apple flesh and peel, a hint of butter and a firm, lasting finish. Clean, clear and classy. 12.3%; $45 93/100

Royer 2022 Estate Riesling

Made with native yeast, finished dry, aged on its lees in neutral puncheons for 10 months and bottled in September 2023. Chris Butler (Cristom) was the consulting winemaker. This wine’s strength is its finish, which sneaks up on you through the palate’s back door. Intended to emulate an Alsatian style, it gathers strength and focus and depth, with deep, juicy citrus fruit expanding gorgeously as it breathes. Texture, detail and depth – this wine has it all. 12.8%; $38 95/100

Royer, Chardonnay Witzel & Wind, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2022

96

Tasted by: Clive Pursehouse

(at Seattle, Washington, 16 Oct 2024)

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2036

Beguiling and confident, Chardonnay may be the future of the Willamette Valley, with the Eola-Amity Hills continuing to show Witzel & Wind comes from a so-named, mixed clonal block containing seven heritage clones of Chardonnay, planted on seven rootstocks. This wine is made using the ‘Black Chardonnay’ method, and its reductive nature shows a briny oyster shell mineral tone, smoky chipped flint, and sleek salted lemon wedge. The palate is exquisite, saline, and stony, with taut lemon oil, verbena, white pepper, and ample brine. Exquisite and classic.

Royer, Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2023

93

Tasted by: Clive Pursehouse

(at Seattle, Washington, 16 Oct 2024)

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2033

An impressive Chardonnay of profound elegance comes from the windy southwest slopes of Royer Vineyard, at 200 metres in the Eola-Amity Hills. Soft on the palate, this delicate and floral wine shows honeyed aromatics of lemon curd and sweet pastry cream lifted by notes of ocean air salinity. It is creamy on the palate, with lemon pastry cream, fleshy ripe apricots, honey-drizzled peaches, and a vibrance that carries through to the finish. Hold this wine to appreciate the ageability of Oregon Chardonnay.

Royer, Estate Riesling, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2022

94

Tasted by: Clive Pursehouse

(at Seattle, Washington, 16 Oct 2024)

Drinking Window: 2024 - 2036

From the windy southwest slopes of Royer Vineyard, at 200 metres in the Eola-Amity Hills, comes a gorgeous Riesling evocative of the Old World owing to its texture and depth. The aromatics are beguiling and complex. Layered citrus cream and cardamom spice with beeswax and clover honey. Honeyed apricot on the palate with dashes of classic petrol and fleshy, macerated peaches. A minerality and spice and a beautifully paired acidity finish this wine gorgeously. Out of sight.

96 Points

Royer 2022 Witzel & Wind Chardonnay

This wine made me question my policy of resisting the temptation to compare Willamette Valley wines to Burgundy. I was geographically disoriented as I took in the wine’s toasted filbert, white-peach and crab apple flower aromas. Witzel & Wind strikes with a heady mix of lemon, tangerine and white grapefruit, with flecks of rosemary and saline. I will have this wine chilled and ready when Dungeness crab season hits. Editor’s Choice. —M.A.

abv: 13.5%                         Price: $115

93 Points

Royer 2023 Estate Chardonnay

If an orchard exploded, it couldn’t possibly smell any better than this enticing siren of a Char- donnay. The seduction begins with a tangy yellow-apple aroma counter- pointed by the scent of a decadent lemon brioche. This scene repeats on the palate as Honeycrisp apple-cider, orange-zest and white-tea flavors are escorted by a pleasingly plump texture and energetic acidity. —M.A.

abv: 12.3%                         Price: $45